1″ 100W Hot-Plate for SMT Reflow

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[03.13.2016]

Black Mesa Labs has been using a $20 hot plate for a year now for soldering QFN ICs to PCBs using the BML Inverted Solder Ball reflow technique. This works great for soldering 0.5mm pitch QFN and LGA type packages that would otherwise require messy stencils and paste. Only issue so far has been the size ( 10″x10″x3″ ) and thermal mass of the commercial hot plate as it consumes precious microscope work area and unfortunately stays quite hot for 30+ minutes after a quick 4 minute single IC reflow job.  BML boards are mostly 1″x1″, so a 800W hot plate with a 6″ diameter heating surface is overkill for most jobs.

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Wanting something much smaller for a typical BML PCB – stumbled across this 24V DC heating element on Amazon for only $14. It is rated for 24V at 5-7 ohms ( or 4.8Amps ).  A surplus 19.5V DC 5A laptop power brick laying around BML seemed like a perfect match for this element.  BML has safety rules avoiding designs above 48V – so the 100Watt 20V DC supply coupled with the 24V element seemed like a great way to make a lot of heat in a small surface area in a short amount of time.

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First experiment was to see if this little element would reach +200C in under 4 minutes. Not wanting to cut up the laptop supply’s power connector – located this

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power connector adapter for only $5 and cut off the yellow Lenovo end of it and converted it to 0.100″ spaced Dupont connector instead. Hooked up a simple push button switch in line with the circuit – pressed the button and measured surface temperature with a digital thermometer – reached 200C in only 90 seconds!  Too fast for reflowing 40nm FPGAs unfortunately. Wanting to keep the 20V supply – needed to switch to pulse width modulation to slow down the thermal ramp to closely match solder reflow profile of 4 minutes to +200C. A relay? Nah – lets design a custom PCB with power FETs!

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After consulting with BML’s “all things analog expert on retainer” DP on how best to switch 100W at 20V – designed a small $2 2-layer PCB as a low-side switch using two IRLML6344TRPBFCT-ND 30V Power MOSFETs in parallel.  Design was drawn ( no schematic ) straight in CopperConnection Gerber drawing tool in less than 15 minutes and fabbed by OSH-Park in about 2 weeks for $2 for a ~1″ x 0.5″ 2-layer 0.8mm PCB.

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Rds On for this N-FET is 0.029 ohms at 5A ( or  725 mW ) which is near the 1.3W limit for the itty bitty SOT23 device. Not having any heatsinks other than the connection to the PCBs giant “Drain Plane” – opted to share the 5A load across two FETs in parallel. The N-Channel MOSFET’s Source is technically ground – but all the heat is dissipated through the Drain, so large pours on both PCB top and bottom were made to better dissipate the Rds On heat. Design is feed thru for + and – from the supply to the + and – for the load even though the + supply doesn’t touch the circuit at all.  Placed 3 different sized vias 0.125″, 0.079″ and 0.040″ so the board may be easily reused for other projects of various gauge wire needing high voltage and current switching.  A 100K resistor to GND ensures the FETs don’t turn on by themselves without a driver present (powerup Hi-Z) and a 1K series resistor to the Gate of both FETs limits the in-rush current. These Infineon  N-Channel FETs are only $0.29, come in a small SOT-23 package, can switch 5Amps from a 3V LVCMOS signal and are now BML’s go to device for power switching.

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Above is a Owon Scope capture of the FET turn on time ( Gate versus Drain ). CH2 ( Yellow ) is the Gate of the N-FET which is driven by LVCMOS 3.3V totem-pole from an AVR through a 1K series resistor. It takes 500ns for the Gate to go from 0V to 1V and then the FET turns on.  CH1 (Red ) is the Drain transitioning from pulled up ( via 1K thru the LED ) to clamping to GND. This transition takes about 2uS total.

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An Arduino Pro (above) was chosen as the PWM controller.  Most BML CPU designs are either RaspPi or Arduino-Zero based ( ARM 32bit ), but BML had this old Sparkfun board in a box and it was the right dimensions as a mechanical base for the project. The 1.5″ diameter heating element is suspended about 1″ in the air, so the wide 2″x2″ Pro board keeps everything from tipping over.
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Above picture shows everything cobbled together. A small piece of aluminum foil is wrapped around the element to keep flux from making a mess of it while under reflow. The heating element comes with 22 AWG solid wire crimped to it and extending about 2″ away. The wires are soldered to a 1×2 SIP connector which then mates to another 1×2 SIP connector on the FET board ( being able to remove the heating element from the circuit while under development was VERY important ).  The FET board is placed in the center of the Arduino Pro board atop some poster putty and held in place with the Enable wire (White ), the 1,500 resistor voltage drop network and a ground wire. The Pro can be powered from an FTDI USB cable of course, but to power it from the single Laptop supply, the voltage required dropping down from 20V to around 12V for the on board LDO.  Three 500 ohm leaded resistors each provide about a 2V drop while the AVR CPU is sipping 4mA, for a total drop of around 6V. A large 1K resistor provides 20mA to the red LED whenever the FET gates are turned on and the heating element is getting power.  Total cost was under $20 for the project – not counting the Arduino Pro in the junk box.MLX90614(E,K)SF-xxA.JPG

The Arduino was chosen over an FPGA as the PWM rate is really slow ( seconds ) and the Arduino makes it easy to expand the design and eventually interface to a Infrared Thermometer over I2C via existing tutorials and libraries.  Eventually the design could be expanded to measure the temperature at the surface of the FR4 under reflow for either reporting and / or control.  For now – the dead reckoning PWM method is plenty sufficient.  As the heating element contains very little thermal mass – it cools down in just seconds.

Above is the target solder reflow profile and below is the achieved profile as measured with a thermocouple on a scrap 1″x1″ FR4 PCB.

The GPL’d open source C++ source is available here hot_plate and is fairly straight forward.  When the button is pressed, the AVR starts a 4 minute PWM state machine that gradually increases the PWM duty cycle from 30% to 40% to 60% and then off.  Measuring a scrap piece of FR4 with a thermocouple mounted to it, an ideal reflow profile of 20-150C for 90 seconds, 150-200C for 90 seconds and finally 200-250C for 50 seconds was achieved. Pressing the button mid thermal cycle cancels the cycle. The AVR and giant Pro board is definitely overkill – but the PCB size made it a great platform to mount everything else to.

A word on safety – although this project is under 48V – the amount of heat it can generate could definitely start a fire if powered up in the wrong place ( under a stack of old newspapers for example ) .  To prevent any potential small fires from starting 3 levels of safety were built it. 1) the Arduino runs the heat profile only when the pushbutton is pressed and then automatically turns itself off after the profile time is complete. 2) The 20V 5A power to the electronics goes through a toggle switch. 3) The original laptop barrel connector is quickly and visibly disconnected from the setup when reflow is complete allowing the hotplate to be visibly disconnected from the power supply when not used.

Below is a YouTube video of a Lattice ICE5LP4K-SGN48 FPGA reflowing on the “Mesa Logic DIP” PCB using the BML Inverted Solder Ball reflow technique. This is a general purpose FPGA board on a 0.100″ grid providing 24 user IOs in a 0.600″ x 1.6″ package. This board has a destiny to reach 100,000 feet (~30km) this coming May as a HAB controller for a weather balloon. It will communicate with both an “on balloon” Raspberry Pi and with a ground station via a RockBLOCK Iridium satellite modem using Mesa Bus Protocol. Stay tuned to Black Mesa Labs for an upcoming blog on all the details of the custom HAB electronics.

 

 

1″ 100W Hot-Plate for SMT Reflow

Video-Duino

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03_24_2015 : Out for Fab

Just fabbed out my most ambitious OSH-Park 2-layer PCB yet.  It is called “VideoDuino” and is an Arduino Pro Mini compatible CPU board ( ATMEGA328 ) that has HDMI graphics via my Spartan6 ( Nano6 ) FPGA design combined with a TI LVCMOS to HDMI converter. Also has the new Analog Devices AD5592R that contains 8 12bit ADCs, DACs and GPIO in 8 configurable IO pins over a simple SPI interface. Board measures 2.6″ x 1.6″ – large for one of my designs, $21 for Qty-3. Board is powered from a standard micro-USB connector. Dual FTDI 1×6 headers for configuring CPU and FPGA from a PC’s USB port. As far as I can tell, there are no Arduino platforms with graphics – so this is somewhat unique.

04_08_2015 : Almost fully assembled!

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04_11_2015 :  Powered up!

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Assembly is 90% Complete.  Still need to solder on the Analog Devices AD5592R and all the headers.  Did a power current test 1st and verified minimum 5V USB current ( about 30mA ) and then used my Digilent HS2 JTAG programmer and Xilinx impact software to download the top.bit bootloader into the FPGA.  Once the bootloader was in, I used BD_SHELL.EXE to load the bootloader permanently into PROM Slot-0 and then my HDMI test design into PROM Slot-1. Power cycled and got my color test bars 1st try! FPGA and HDMI converter chip are at about 70mA on 5V supply. Next I need to download the Arduino bootloader using the AVRISP mkII and verify the CPU is working.

Stage-1 of this project was PCB design.  Stage-2 was assembly and power on test.  Now I will move on to Stage-3 which is FPGA firmware design and Arduino software design.

04_12_2015 : Arduino CPU is Alive!

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Used my AVRISP mkII USB to ISP ( SPI ) dongle from Atmel to program the Arduino bootloader from Arduino app on my Linux workstation into the AVR ATMEGA328 micro controller – magically turning it into a full fledged Arduino.  The firmware upload flow for this board is to use proprietary cables ( HS2 JTAG For Xilinx, AVRISP mkII for AVR ) only once on the board after assembly. After both bootloaders are installed, I use a generic FTDI cable to update firmware.  The bright red LED is actually flashing at 1Hz using my bringup sketch. My board is fully software compatible with the awesome Sparkfun Arduino Pro Mini. A tremendous bargain for $10.

Next goal for the project is to design a simple SPI bus bridge from the CPU to my FPGA. My goal is to be able to rapidly prototype software in Python on my Linux workstation that talks directly to the FPGA via FTDI. When I have working Python – I can then port it to C and have it run on Arduino standalone.

04_27_2015 : VGA 80×32 or 40×16 Text is working

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One of the main practical features of this project is to provide text output for microcontrollers over just a couple of wires. Actual graphics might be slow to transfer- but text should be quick – especially when I provide hardware line scrolling. Today I got my VGA text going.  I found a free to use VGA equivalent font ( 8×16 ) called Unicode VGA font – Thank you Dmitry Bolkhovityanov! All I needed to do was to write a quick python script to parse out the 1st 128 ASCII characters and build a 2Kx8 Verilog inferrable ROM from it. The ROM size 2Kx8 is 128 ASCII characters by 16 vertical lines by 8 data bits for the 8 horizontal pixels per character which is a single Xilinx Block RAM.  A 4Kx8 RAM then provides a text buffer for 128×32 characters ( displayed as 80×32 on the 768×512 HDMI display ). Only hickup was Spartan6 has some issues with ROMs and my 1st attempt was always reading out nothing but zeros. For some reason switching to inferrable VHDL ROM instead of Verilog fixed the problem – strange Xilinx issue.   Basic circuit works great.  Now I need to decide if I should provide scrolling display feature ( “Trace” ) in hardware or write it in software.  I think I need to create a generic hardware block for zeroing out line bursts of either text of graphics to speed things up.

I am toying with the idea of providing hardware sprites so that this could be used for simple 8bit gaming.  In a 4Kx9 RAM ( 2 BRAMs ) I could provide 16 different sprites of 16x16x9 ( 3bit RGB ).  Games would be limited to dynamic sprites overlayed on top of static ( slowly drawn ) background. If I go this route – I probably would need to provide sound as well….

05.09.2015   So I designed this new bus protocol I call “BML Packet Bus” for transferring bits, bytes and dwords over multiple interfaces ( UART, SPI, I2C, Bit-Bang ) with the bus master being a uP ( ala Arduino ) or even another FPGA.  It is an enhancement over my existing “Pixel Bus” and it is very flexible in terms of payload optimization and ideal for video transfer ( burst increments can be specified for bursting in any direction ). Like all great ideas – I designed it in my backyard hammock on an engineering notepad. I even got so far as typing it all up in Verilog comments. Sadly – I then hit a roadblock realizing it isn’t something I can just write the Verilog in my head and debug in circuit.  I need a simulator. I use and love Modelsim at my day job, unfortunately they have no “Home License” for a few $100 like Eagle does for layout.  They have a “Student Edition” – but I haven’t set foot in a classroom since I was a Science Docent for my kids in the 2000’s. So – looking for a good simulator for home. Have used Icarus Verilog + GTKwave in the past – but would like something better. Any suggestions ?

Video-Duino

TRRS 3.5mm Plugs and Jacks

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[01.14.2015]  I designed a very simple $2 circuit board to breakout a “TRRS” (Tip-Ring-Ring-Shield ) 3.5mm headphone jack that you see all over the place these days. I’m wanting to drive multiple channels of an oscilloscope and the 3 RCA to 3.5mm TRRS cables seem to be in use everywhere and would be useful for low bandwidth ( ~50MHz ) applications for capturing digital state transitions ( not so much signal integrity ). The TRRS jacks exist in smart phones to support earbud head sets with microphones and also in video devices ( video iPod, camcorder, etc ) to deliver Left and Right audio plus a Composite video on 3 conductors plus a return instead of the normal “TRS”  Tip-Rings-Shield 2 conductor stereo connector.  Digging into to their pinout I was astonished to find out that mechanically all the TRRS plugs and receptacles seem compatible, but electrically EVERYBODY wires them up differently. The return signal actually isn’t the “S” ( shield ) for most manufacturers ( although it is for some ).  The “S” is return for 3.5mm mono, 3.5mm stereo, but not necessarily 3.5mm TRRS 3 conductor. Some devices go in the TRRS order of “Audio-Audio-Ground-Video”, some “Audio-Video-Ground-Audio”, some “Audio-Audio-Video-Ground”.  I looked up various TRRS to RCA cables on Amazon and about 1/2 the reviews said things like “piece of junk – didn’t work” or “audio on only one channel, no video” or “didn’t work until I plugged the red into video and yellow into audio jack”.  What a disaster.  How much does this cost Amazon in returns? Bad design decisions like these are made by electrical engineers and it really makes the industry look bad. I ended up going with the “Camcorder” ~standard~ as at least multiple manufactures agreed to it for video cameras ( but of course I won’t be able to use an Apple video cable ).  I found a good writeup up on this whole TRRS mess here . To think electrical engineers helped get men on the moon in 1969.

TRRS 3.5mm Plugs and Jacks

USB 2.0 FTDI 12Mbps Serial Converter Board Assembly

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[ 01.12.2015 ] Assembled my new USB 2.0 12Mbps UART board today.  Thought I would take the opportunity to blog about the entire process from start to finish – board design, procurement, surface mount assembly and final test.

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[ 12.23.2014 ] Started new ExpressPCB 2-layer design for a small 1″x0.5″ board to replace a standard 1Mbps FTDI Cable but run 12x faster using a USB 2.0 chip from FTDI – the FT232H.  All of my previous FTDI board designs have used the FT232R as it is a smaller chip that includes an oscillator and all the USB passives on chip.  The FT232R interfaces to USB at a conservative 12 Mbps versus SERDES 480 Mbps for the FT232H.  The FT232H requires a lot more support circuitry ( 12 MHz precision oscillator, protection diodes and is in a bigger package ).  Expecting a 2-layer PCB to work at 480 Mbps was a huge $3 gamble I was willing to take.

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[ 12.26.2014 ] Finished the design ( working on it part time – had other things going on the last few days ). Typical design flow is schematic design and then have a computer autoroute. My flow is quite different in that I manually place components where I think they can be routed using only two layers and also assembled by hand in as small area as possible. Using ExpressPCB version 7.0.2 (only), layout is done manually using a vector drawing program.  Red signifies copper on the top, green copper on the bottom, yellow silkscreen on top for labeling. Designing a PCB like this is very much a challenging puzzle.  After I finish the design, I import the ExpressPCB file into CopperConnection and export a single *.ZIP containing layer Gerbers and Excellon drill files in OSH-Park selected format. This process takes about 10 seconds. I could actually layout my board design in CopperConnection – but I already know ExpressPCB  – so why bother learning a new tool? ExpressPCB is a great service for at work when I need a board fast. When I’m not in much of a hurry, OSH-Park is super inexpensive and high quality.

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[ 12.26.2014 ] Uploaded Gerber and Excellon *.ZIP file of design to OSH-Park. The website takes a few minutes and presents a rendering of all the different layers ( Copper, Solder Mask, Silkscreen, Drill holes ). Approve and purchase the design 0.61×1.21 inch (15.39×30.66 mm) 2 layer board for $3.65

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Here is an example OSH-Park panel that I found on the web that they showed at a Makerfaire in Portland in 2013. Notice how small all the designs are and how much daylight shines through. Their software does a fantastic job of panelizing multiple small gerber designs. Other low cost PCB places like IteadStudio stick with simple fixed rectangles on a 5x5cm grid and charge on those dimensions even if your design is much smaller. I often look at other people’s OSH-Park designs at flickr site to see how far they stretch the 2 layer and 4 layer capabilities.

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[ 01.10.2015 ]  Bare boards arrive in the mail. They usually have rough snap-off edges which are easily filed down with a metal file.

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[ 01.12.2015 ] Surface Mount Assembly begins.  My tools are a 10x/30x microscope, a Weller-Ungar 921ZX soldering station with a screwdriver tip, GC Electronics Liquid solder-flux 10-4202, Kester “44 Rosin Core” lead solder 66/44 0.5mm .020″, Chem-Wik 0.075″ solder wick,  Isopropyl Alcohol 99.8% IPA, Cotton Swabs, Dental Pick, Tweezer and “Dexter” leather gloves. I also have a 4″ surplus case fan at the back of my microscope to take away the fumes.

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I always start by placing the QFP 1st as alignment is crucial with 0.5mm pitch between pins. Once the package is perfectly aligned ( 10x magnification ) I pour solder flux liberally along the perimeter. Flux is amazing stuff, not only does it perform Jedi mind control on molten lead to seek out copper and avoid solder mask – but it is wonderfully sticky stuff and does a fairly decent job of keeping the QFP from drifting out of alignment.  That said – I always tack down the corners first with just a bit of solder and then pour the solder on thick – rolling across all the leads. End result – complete ugly mess, shorts everywhere – but the leads are all attached to their pads in perfect alignment.

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Pass-2 ( you knew there had to be a pass-2, right ? ) – Solder Cleanup.  The wick combined with the flux on the board magically sucks up the excess solder shorting all the leads.  This step gets really hot really fast. I protect myself ( finger tips ) with my Dexter gloves ( thin unlined leather ) so I can position the wick and not burn myself.  I protect the chip by only wicking about 4 pins at a time then pull back and let the IC cool down for a few seconds before proceeding.  Takes patience but perfectly soldering an internally fried chip to a board is a real bummer. I do own a nice hot air reflow station where I can remove bad ICs -but I generally would rather just start a new board assembly from scratch than rework a bad one.

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Pass-3 : This pass is optional, but is worth the effort.  Apply lots of IPA ( the kind that makes you go blind – not the tasty beer ) and cotton swab scrubbing to remove all the flux.

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Pass-4 : With the QFP clean, I crank my microscope up from 10x to 30x and go around to each pin with a dental pick and check for bad solder joints ( loose pins ) or any shorts. I usually don’t find any, but the time to check is before all the other components are soldered to the board as access to the QFP pins becomes difficult if there are other components around.

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Once the QFP is on everything else is pretty straight forward.  I only use 0603 for Bypass caps ( 0.1uF ) and 0805 10uF Bulk Caps and 0805 resistors.  This speeds up assembly as I don’t need to look up each component in the design file, I can tell just by the pad size and what its connected to determine what to place.  For example – I never connect a 0805 resistor between power and ground – so it must be a 10uF bulk cap.  For the small SMT 0603s and 0805s I drop a bit of solder on 1 of 2 pads, then apply to component with tweezer and resolder the 1st pad to the component, then with the component firmly ( fully planar ) attached to the board, I apply solder and the iron tip to the 2nd pad. After this, the 1st pad usually needs some more solder to make a good looking connection.  Thats it – I’m done with assembly!

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Before test – I take a moment to reflect and decide what I would do differently to make assembly easier in the future.  For this design the microUSB connector was a problem. It is designed for solder paste and oven reflow assembly as the leads are recessed behind the shield housing.  I was able to solder them eventually, but a little more space between the connector and QFP would have been better. Mini-USB is MUCH easier to hand solder. Another issue I discovered is the shield extending behind the leads unexpectedly results in the shield resting above my 5V trace on the top side.  The solder mask is the only insulation preventing a short from 5V to shield return.  Prior to plugging into my computer, I applied my 5V DC supply to 5V PCB rail and the shield and confirmed no short.  This is OK for a one-off, but I immediately created a new “fixed” version of this design and moved the 5V trace south about 0.010″ to clear the shield. For $3.50 I will probably fab out this “fixed” version and scrap the remaining 2 unstuffed PCBs of Gen-1 if  I decide I need more than 1 unit.  The micro USB connector was the only issue, so moving on….

Time for test. Plug and pray a micro USB cable from my computer into the board.  And look at that! COM5 ready for use.

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1st test is to send 9,600 baud to my scope. Bit length is about 100us, or roughly 10,000 Baud.

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2nd test to send 921,600 baud to my scope. Now the bit length is about 1us, or roughly 1Mbaud.

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3rd and final test, run my Powershell  script that talks directly to FTDI device driver DLL and configure port for 12Mbaud.

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Excellent! I’m in business.  I now have a USB 2.0 to 12Mbps UART serial interface into my FPGA designs that is electrically and mechanically compatible with my existing FPGA boards ( that are designed for the industry standard FTDI cable ).  That ends my Black Mesa activity for tonight.  Next tasks are to change my FPGA design for the faster baud rate ( simple divisor setting in Verilog ) and establish Backdoor communications (Register Reads and Writes using BD_SHELL.exe ) and then time SUMP.exe data dumps from FPGA to computer and compare date rates between 1Mbps cable and 12Mbps board. Due to Windows and Powershell limitations – it may or may not be faster.  If it is faster ( like 10x faster ) – my next iteration of the design is ready to be assembled. This uses the same chip, but interfaces using 16 wires over a Nano x16 header instead of the FTDI 2 wire 1×6 connector. Spec says transfer rates should be 40 MBytes/Sec ( 320 Mbps ) – which theoretically would be 27x faster than my existing design that is already 12x faster than my existing FTDI cable. That project is for another day however.

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USB 2.0 FTDI 12Mbps Serial Converter Board Assembly